Just 500 metres south of the Golden Temple, and visible above every rooftop in the old city, rises the 40-metre tower of Gurdwara Baba Atal Sahib — the tallest gurdwara in India. It was built in the 1770s in memory of Atal Rai, the nine-year-old son of the sixth Guru Hargobind, and each of its nine storeys represents one year of his short life. According to legend, Atal Rai revived a dead friend using divine power, and when reprimanded by his father, chose to give up his own life in atonement on this very spot.
Most Golden Temple visitors miss it entirely, which is precisely why it's the best add-on stop in Amritsar. Climb the narrow interior staircase (open until 19:00) for the finest aerial view of the Harmandir Sahib complex and the surrounding Kaulsar sarovar. The lower floors carry restored 19th-century frescoes depicting scenes from the Ramayana and Sikh history — some of the finest surviving Punjabi wall painting. The langar hall to the west serves through the day and is markedly less crowded than the main Golden Temple kitchen.
Climb the tower in late afternoon (16:00-17:00) for the best light on the Golden Temple domes.
Enter via the Kaulsar Sarovar side to avoid the tourist crowd flowing from Harmandir Sahib.
The langar here has shorter queues than the main Golden Temple langar — a useful lunch stop.
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