Sarson da saag with makki di roti — mustard-greens curry with cornbread — is Punjab's winter dish, best October-February. Butter chicken (murgh makhani) was invented at Moti Mahal in the 1950s by a Peshawari chef, and Punjab still cooks it best. Dal makhani, slow-cooked black lentils in butter and cream, is the second-most-ordered Indian dish worldwide. Chole bhature, spicy chickpeas with fried bread, is Sunday brunch across the state.
Amritsari kulcha — stuffed leavened bread cooked in a clay oven with paneer, potato, or onion — is a plate-sized breakfast for $1-2. Try it at Kulcha Land in Ranjit Avenue. Amritsari fish (river sole in gram flour batter) at Makhan Fish Shop off Queens Road. Patiala's mutton curry, cooked with almond and yogurt, still uses royal-era recipes. Ludhianvi chicken tikka, marinated 24 hours and grilled hot.
Lassi is Punjab's national beverage — sweet at Ahuja Milk Bhandar in Amritsar (₹80/$1 for a glass), salted with cumin at village dhabas. Jalebi hot from the karhai at Gurdas Ram in Amritsar. Kheer (rice pudding) at any langar. Phirni, thicker rice pudding served in clay pots, best after a heavy dinner. Kulfi falooda at Sindhi Sweets in Chandigarh Sector 17.
Punjab is the easiest state in India for vegetarians and vegans. Every gurdwara serves free vegetarian langar. Paneer tikka, dal fry, aloo gobhi, and rajma-chawal are standard everywhere. For vegans, ask for food without ghee, cream, or paneer — many kitchens will adjust. Sarson da saag is often cooked with butter but can be prepared with oil on request.
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