From Chandigarh, take NH7 south for 1.5 hours by car ($30 taxi one-way). Trains run frequently; the 12497 Shan-e-Punjab from Ludhiana takes 90 minutes, $4 second-sitting. From Amritsar it's 4.5 hours by car and best combined with an overnight rather than a day trip.
Qila Mubarak, the fortified palace complex, opens 9-5, entry $1. Inside sits the Sheesh Mahal with its mirror-work rooms and the Ran Baas darbar hall. Nearby, the Baradari Gardens house the Neemrana palace hotel — stop for coffee even if not sleeping there. The Moti Bagh Palace on the outskirts is now the National Institute of Sports; the exterior is spectacular but interiors are limited to sports facilities.
Adalat Bazaar is the go-to for handcrafted juttis ($8-15), phulkari dupattas ($10-25), and paranda hair tassels. For lunch, Neelam Sweets on Mall Road for a full thali ($4) or Gopal Sweets for chole bhature. The Patiala peg — traditionally 4 fingers of whisky — is served at Baradari Palace bar in the evening if you’re staying over.
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