The core five
1) Qila Mubarak — the mud-fort complex is 10 times bigger than expected, allow 3 hours, $2 entry. 2) Sheesh Mahal — the mirror palace inside Motibagh, currently the museum of coins and medals, $1 entry. 3) Baradari Gardens — 40 acres of Mughal-era gardens, free, best at 7am.
4) Kali Devi Temple — the working religious heart of the city, silver-plated interior. 5) Gurdwara Dukh Nivaran Sahib — quieter than Amritsar's temple and no less atmospheric.
Eat, sleep, drink
Eat: Chawla's Chicken for the local tandoori (since 1963, $5 a portion). Neelam Sweets for the patiala lassi, which is the real thing versus the tourist version elsewhere. The Patiala peg served at any bar is a genuine 90ml pour — start at Baradari Palace Hotel's bar for the setting.
Sleep: Baradari Palace Hotel, a Neemrana property in a 19th-century royal residence, $65 including breakfast. Or Narain Niwas Palace for a similar heritage feel. Both under-photographed, easy to book 1 week out.
Questions, answered
Hotels in Punjab
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